“In March of 1909, President Teddy Roosevelt
stayed at the Mena while preparing for his celebrated one-year African safari. Roosevelt needed to hire 200 cooks, stewards, and
translators for his adventure. And, in Roosevelt's
time of need, Nicholas found his gift. Nicholas could cook. He could steward.
He spoke fluent Arabic. He would see Africa,
and then perhaps the rest of the world. Roosevelt
hired him on; clearly, this was the opportunity of a lifetime. Eventually, he
reached Ellis Island with an Egyptian
passport. The K in Kanlis was changed to a C—the Canlis name had arrived in America. Eventually,
Nicholas Canlis moved west and married a young immigrant beauty, Susan, whose
natural affinity for the flavors and aromas of the old country were embraced by
her new husband. Together, they opened the first-generation Canlis restaurant
in Stockton, California. Mama ran the front and Papa ran
the back. Nick's eldest son, Peter, became their reluctant apprentice. In the
late 1930s, Peter Canlis struck out on his own, heading to Hawaii to sell dry goods. During World War
II, his knowledge of food and his shrewd purchasing skills led to an offer to
manage the United Services Organization's Honolulu
food service operations. Soon everyone on Oahu knew that the best meal to be
had in Hawaii
was at the USO. After the war, Peter remained in Hawaii
and opened his first restaurant, The Broiler, a ten-table sidewalk restaurant
in Waikiki. In 1950, Peter Canlis moved to Seattle and opened the
restaurant that was to put his mark on the nation's fine dining scene. He chose
a magnificent view location just three miles north of the city center, and,
with characteristic vision, hired up-and-coming architect Roland Terry to make
his vision a reality. Terry is now widely known as the father of Northwest
architecture; his sweeping and timeless design—marked by a great stone
fireplace, a span of angled windows to capture the views, and a glistening
copper charcoal broiler placed in the middle of the dining room—continues to
impress guests today with its alluring mix of stunning outlooks and elegantly
tranquil spaces. Even the kitchen was intentionally left exposed to the dining
room, a daring and cutting-edge design choice that visually launched Canlis
ahead of its time. Among many firsts, Peter Canlis is credited with being the
first restaurateur to utilize team-style service in his dining room; his
influence in the kitchen also made him a pioneer in the field of what is now
called Northwest cuisine. And instead of employing waiters in customary
tuxedos, he employed graceful kimono-clad waitresses who transformed customer
service into an art form. The result of these ingenious decisions was a very
popular restaurant indeed; "in the know" Seattleites, along with
movie stars and wealthy international travelers, became Canlis regulars, just
as discerning diners at the forefront of modern cuisine frequent the restaurant
today. Sixty years later, Peter Canlis's architectural and culinary jewel is
marvelously run by the next generation of family restaurateurs, Mark and Brian,
who were preceded by their parents, Chris and Alice. Together, the family has
preserved the traditions of this famous landmark while adding their creativity
and energy to the vision of Canlis that has been a constant source of
inspiration since the restaurant's storied beginnings.
(And if you're wondering about the third son in
these photographs, it's the oldest brother Matt—a minister in Scotland, a
father of four, and the restaurant's official Chaplain and Whiskey Consultant.)”
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